Watches Review Center Report: Play watch who can not always sweep plus the date, it is only practical models only. Entry-level multi-function, the most important function of Sun Moon Star and timing, the former quiet, but more the way of several display, skill, aesthetics and adjust the presentation of the way; the latter Chongwu, between dynamic and static switch, the time span of the calculation, more than a lot of fun. From the pocket watch era, time shall become an important feature to have gaps of time constraints, such as the modern watch times, people prefer to the actual calculation of a function of time. Time, has become the most important functions of the watch.
Part I: Famous chronograph movement plant
A, Lemania
A long time ago, the Swiss watch industry will have a ASUAG and SSIH (SWATCH, the predecessor of what is now) the two major groups exist. There are three core chronograph movement ASUAG factories were Landeron, Venus, Valjoux company. As ASUAG competitors SSIH, there is a magic weapon to contend with, this is the famous LEMANIA company. In 1884, a company called Roriento established. This is LEMANIA predecessor, from 1912 onwards, it has started processing the movement for the OMEGA. In 1932, it became a member of SSHI Group (this group includes the Omega was the core
TISSOT,
RADO,
LONGINES). After not long, it was spun off from the SSIH group, but continue to produce SSIH use of the brand within the time products, in particular, and
OMEGA are very closely related, once mighty. Quartz wave until the arrival of 1970, the company faces bankruptcy danger of disintegration. In
1981 BREGUET , the company acquired investment LEMANIA, it became a member of the Group BREGUET. Name changed to the new LEMANIA company. In 1999, as the parent of the existence of BREGUET, by
SWATCH Group acquired, LEMANIA another dramatic and OMEGA, LONGINES reunion of the old partners, the Swiss watch manufacturing industry one of the beam column arrived.
1. Lemania 15TL
1920s, began producing the famous 15TL, it is almost time LEMANIA developed the first successful movement. While this movement has had the core of the mature technology of modern time. First used in hand-rolled pocket watch. Los Angeles Olympics in 1932 While this product to use, after the watch has used it. Looking back, not only original but also very famous. Note that it is column-wheel with 7 tooth structure, was already quite advanced and sophisticated. Normal small second hand at 6 o'clock, chronograph minute hand and the position of plate 12.
2. Lemania 27CH
Lemania 27CH is
LEMANI and
OMEGA co-crystallization. Standard movement published in 1942 by the Jaques Reymond and Lemania Omega watchmakers Albert Piguet joint development, model 27 CHRO C12. Diameter 27MM. Later, in 1946, OMEGA to revise it to 321 for SPEEDMASTER assembly. Its column wheel, with 8 teeth. More sophisticated easy to use. It's a small second hand at 9 o'clock position, time minute hand at 3 o'clock position. Variant of the famous models have a more famous manufacturers in the use, it is Prince Philip. After Philip modifications and upgrades, Lemania2310 (that is 27CH) has become the main core member PATEK time. Applied to the modern REF. 5070,3970 and other models, praised by experts and sought after players.
3.1270
This is LEMAINIA in 27CH and cam-style over the middle of 1872 products manufactured from the 1960s. Cam works, permanent second hand at 9 o'clock, minute counter at 3 o'clock position, the diameter is 27MM, note that these are the manufacturing costs are: 27CH> 1270> 1872
4.1872
1872 is the famous OMEGA 860 series, diameter 27MM, which is LEMANIA OMEGA in 1972 and works jointly developed with the previous biggest difference is time the Centre has adopted the eccentric timing structure, Y-shaped splint was changed to a more swatch simple form. Production and assembly easier, and costs significantly reduced. Small seconds at 9 o'clock position, time minute hand at 3 o'clock, chronograph hours at 6 o'clock position. While this movement is simple and durable, the completion of a demanding test, once equipped with the OMEGA SPEEDMASTER on the moon.
5.1340
1340 1040 OMEGA automatic timing is a 1970s production, this is the first automatic timing LEMANIA core. Cam-type timing center, two points are different from the past: power transmission mode is walking arm-style, traditional slip into gear to be canceled. Another time the second hand and minute hand have adopted the Central time configuration. 1350 was a more mature modern BREGUET, bao and other brands used.
6.5100
The 5100 is more mature then the automatic timing core, this is called the OMEGA CAL.1045. Beginning in 1974, manufacturing, practical 24-hour display at 12 o'clock position is designed, While this movement is still being produced until now, but NATO used to be a large number of military form of production. TUTIMA and SINN are used. ETA7750 carries it to someone and comparison between different,
Second, Valjoux
Valjoux timing is not the most famous pin factory, has no doubt. The SWATCH-ETA now a part of the world's largest manufacturer of timing factory movement has a face-lift for the general life-long service. Valjoux in French Vallee de Joux Valley, the meaning of Ru. 1901, Raymond Brothers was founded in the Ru-valley situation of this in the future of the company, began when the company is named after two brothers, but how long, Val de Joux become a brand name, Raymond family before being acquired has been in operation ETA the company, you not seen the bottom of the balance wheel of the great "R" in the tag? It was Raymond's first letter. ROLEX DAYTONA someone found the famous "R" flower standard, that is the core self ROLEX, it is a very subjective idea of it. In the 80 years after the wave of quartz, ETA acquisition Valjoux, Valjoux time to produce the core of this historical giant, declared bankruptcy.
1. CAL.22
In 1914, the famous core CAL.22 core advent of time, the company has laid a milestone for the Valjoux. CAL.22 a 9 tooth structure column wheel chronograph, very sophisticated. Was no seismic device, power transmission mode is walking arm-style, slip into gear with the traditional format. Start and stop with the spring bar, was screws. Diameter: 31.58mm, small seconds at 9 o'clock position, chronograph minute hand at 3 o'clock position. CAL.22 later time with a 12-hour drive to become CAL.71. Another 22 type has a lower grade of deformation, the GHT format, note that it's time for the 6 column-wheel teeth, less than the traditional 22 advanced.
2. CAL.23
1916, experienced a three times improvement CAL.22, introduced CAL.23 type, using the same column wheel chronograph 9 tooth structure, no seismic device, power transmission mode is walking arm-style, slip into gear with the traditional format . Start and stop with the spring bar, was screws. CAL.23 much better technically, its diameter is reduced to: 29.32mm. This type of laying a late 23's CAL.72 the advent of the most outstanding.
3. CAL72
1946, CAL.72 come out. This is a perfect time in the history of the movement. From the structure and process, and impeccable. While retaining the traditional 9-tooth sprocket and walking arm-style, slip into gear and other formats, the new joined-hour drive time, plus new designs of English Gabriel recorded a shock , sweep, including rivers and lakes .... including a large number of outstanding ROLEX brand are used. Diameter of 29.32mm, second hand: 9 o'clock position, time minute hand: 3 o'clock, chronograph hours: 6 o'clock. This type after 77 and 92, power transmission to shake type, inexpensive model of industrialization, has begun to show. In 1974, While this time the famous classic has been declared discontinued.
4. CAL.7730
In 1967, CAL.7730 come out. It abolished the traditional column wheel as the time to switch cam control center, from the structurally more simple and easier maintenance. Its diameter is 31.58mm, the small second hand: 9 o'clock, minute counter at 3 o'clock in the position. Switzerland in 1978 and 7730 to stop production, but mimics the structure of the Poljot 3133 has been in production. In 1969, more than 7730 of the 7733 advent of simple, mass production of the timing core, flooding the market. Cheap but is it poor quality? History of its own conclusions, people like, or traditional column wheel 9 tooth beauty and Y-shaped clip version of the harmony. A version called the 7734 date display, a 12-hour accumulated total is 7736. HMT 7733 the company bought the manufacturing and import and export license, is now being produced in India.
5. CAL.7750
July 1, 1974, modified 7750 by the 7740 advent of automatic timing. He has many variants, such as: 7751 (plus a perpetual calendar and moon phase) 7760 (7750 manual version) 7761 (7751 manual version) 7758 (plus the phase of the moon) 7765 (manual, but different, and 7760). The largest output of modern Switzerland, the most frequently used timing core. Its diameter is 30mm, small seconds at 9 o'clock, minute counter at 6 o'clock in the location, hours of drive time in the 12 o'clock position, it uses cam timing, power transmission for the shake-style, not slip into gear. Is already the most modern and compact design. Not the traditional concept.
Third, Venus
Venus is a beautiful name, as the chronograph movement, Valjoux with it and give a high evaluation is outside of the manufacturers. Venus was founded in 1924 by Schmitz, p & jb berret Founded by three. 20-50 years of his work in the market in a very good reputation. In 1969, Venus bleak ending, failure to close.
1.150
Venus 1950 150 core to begin production of the main intermediate models. Column wheel with 7 tooth structure, timing, transmission method for the walking arm-type, the use of slip into gear. There are two small cap 150 can be calculated minute span, there are three small cap can be calculated by a 152-hour span. Venus 150 and 175, the same principles and structure, just different sizes. 150 Diameter: 29.32mm. 175 Diameter: 31.58mm. It's a small second hand at 9 o'clock, minute counter at 3 o'clock position.
2.178
This is Venus the most outstanding products, made since 1950. Breitling is the famous large-scale use. Time center column wheel with 7 tooth structure, transmission methods for the walking arm-type, the use of slip into gear, 175 is a two time offer. There was a three time disk 178. Its diameter is large than 150 2.26mm. Small second hand: 9 o'clock position, minutes counter at 3 o'clock, hour counter at 6 o'clock position.
3.196
This is a popular 40-50 years of small time core. LEONIDAS supplied by the same column wheel with 7 tooth structure was walking arm-type transmission mode, using slip into gear, its diameter is 23.7mm, suiwatch for small watch, the normal small second hand at 6 o'clock, attention, It can only calculate the activities within 60 seconds, no minutes of class time settings.
4.188 170
188 is the first production of the cheap version of Venus, the working principle of a cam-type, but to stick with walking arm-and slip into gear. Small seconds at 9 o'clock Chronograph minute hand at 3 o'clock position. The 200 was also changed from 188.CAL.170 began to be produced from 1945, and 188 together, is a cheap mass-produced version of Venus, although it uses a column wheel structure, but the momentum has changed to low-cost means of communication rocking style. This, too simplistic an experimental trends it. Small second hand is rather special, at 6 o'clock, minute counter at 12 o'clock.
Fourth, Landeron
Landeron is a manufacturer of low-cost core brands. Something big and stupid. Moreover, it has a considerable negative impact on yield and, not to mention it and then Bovet Freres & Co SA is also inextricably linked.
48 (old type) is a representative, then at least make Landeron still very formal thing. Using low-cost cam timing, which is Landeron first cam structure. It is to stick with walking arm-and slip into gear. Want to know is that it's time now operate in different ways, is starting on the button, the button is to stop & reset. From 48 (new), the reset hammer is made of a simple graphic design. This is to easy to produce, they longed to be only one part to complete all the work. , On the button to take a new start & stop function, the button changes to bear only reset.
51 era-type can be seen is how the time step by step into the low-cost core. Withstand the early shift round the body the body and the cam also dedicated a single production transition to the post once the pressure built altogether on it, the convenience was a lot. However, the test of time, proving once again that age only with the heart-made quality, can experience the old and intact. Then later some terrible version of the operating contacts are cheap wire rod replacement, such as CAL.77. This should be self-defeating outcome of these designer bar the door.
Part II: Famous Choronograph Movement
Angelus 250
40's Angelus, has a very high quality, fire crazy the past few years PANERAI, we used it the movement. While this calculation is representative of 250, 6-wheel column, very classic board road. Two time, 12 so, it is suiwatch for the size of wrist watch. It measures 26.6 * 5.5mm, 17 drill, 18000 A / h. The same famous series is 210,215,254.
Breitling 11
This is almost automatically the first time listed the core. Hamilton-Bruen, Dubois-Depraz,
Breitlmg and Heuer organized a team to Hamilton-Bruen its small oscillating movement to the base Tuo, Dubois-Depraz designed timing system, the other two parts of the two companies responsible for assembling and loading shells folder This is the name of the Breitling cal.11, on March 3, 1969 global launch, which set a code watch at 2:00 / 4:00 direction of the start / stop / zero model. This compact has its own characteristics, the direction of the head in 9:00. Buren's numbers are well-known 11,12,15 and so on. But on the whole is the same thing and Breitling 11. It measures 31 * 7.7mm, 17 drill, 19800 A / h, power reserve 42 hours.
ZENITH EL
1865, 22-year-old young businessman Georges Favre-Jacot Le Locle, Switzerland, the company founded Favre Jacot. Its January 10, 1969 launch of the El Primero (Spanish and Italian first) shock watch circles, because it is the first automatic code watch-one, not be separated if the Breitling is laminated, which is the first high frequency models, or pre-empt the launch of the first (B
Breitling months), the movement of smaller diameter, fine degree / degree of difficulty is much higher than Breitling. But the days of unpredicwatch things can happen! Since the 1970s, the popularity of quartz watches and many watch factories disappear, ZENITH also not spared in 1972 by a U.S. company mergers and acquisitions, the company name is ZENITH Radio Chicago, this is a TV company. Three years later, ZENITH movement to stop production, fortunately, is a tool and machinery retained. To July 1978, ZENITH was again bought the Swiss industrialist Paul Castella, the company changed its name to
ZENITH Movado Le Locle Ltd.. This is why you can see and MOVADO ZENITH same time there are two signature watch. In 1984 the company resumed production of movement, models 400,410,420 and so on. EL was the most famous use of ROLEX converted to become the first generation of automatic ROLEX DAYTONA boosted the reputation. It measures 30 * 6.5mm, 31 drill, 36000 A / h, power reserve 50 hours.
ROLEX 4130
ROLEX from the 40's remember the time to start using V batteries, one of the most famous was undoubtedly the V72. After the era of automatic timing,
ROLEX not anxious to do the work from the plant, but chose the EL ZENITH improved use. But how can not have their own ROLEX time work? The Rock, 2000, under the watchful eyes, ROLEX While this made the famous 4130 movement. Its size is placed at a frequency of 28,800 30.5 mm * 6.5 mm up to 72 hours of power reserve. Cal.4130 and past the entire structure of other common code watch watch factory-made chronograph movement and the movement is different.
We can find in the Cal.4130 Rolex heart chain mechanism to drive modular, timing mechanism linked modular, and use has been up and down movement of the structural sub-folder version of the regional structure of the complex order of the considerable movement beautiful. It uses columnar star cam control chronograph start, stop, zero, feel quite outstanding.
GP.3080
Girard-Perregaux 3080 CAL.3000 from the factory is built on the accumulation of core technology timing model. Dubois-Depraz provides a well-known for its timing module 8510. As ETA2894 the same, 3MM thin base is very suiwatch for this technology accumulation. It was born in 1999, put the size frequency 28,800 23.3 * 6.28 mm, 38 drill, 36 hours power reserve. As for the use of time outside the factory timing module core group still is not the real design, a matter of opinion, but as a famous model, the obligation to do what I described above.
FP1185
Frederic Piguet movement known as the SWATCH Group factory, shared with the production of high-grade movement tasks. 1185 born in the famous 1988, Automatic, 21,600 bph, size: 26.2 * 5.4 mm 37 drill, 42 hours power reserve. This core is the only modern and ROLEX4130, ZENITH EL time to fight the high-end auto-core. Many well-known brands use it, there are groups within the Blancpain Flyback, OMEGA's 3033 and 3313 to coaxial. Outside the group's Franck Muller-King Conquistador, Vacheron Constantin's Overseas, Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak.
